3D Printing Setup

Optimizing your 3D print settings is the first step towards getting a mini that looks a cut above the rest. From reducing print failures to increasing the quality and detail of your prints, spending a little time getting this right has a massive payoff at the end.

In this post, I'll go over my physical setup and how I calibrate my 3D print settings for SGG minis so that you can achieve a similar result. However, keep in mind that depending on your 3D printer model, the temperature/humidity of your area, and other factors, you'll likely have to experiment a little to figure out what works best for your particular setup.

My 3D Printer

I use an ELEGOO Satin 4 Ultra. This was a brand new model when I started my setup (it was on preorder when I was looking to purchase my first 3D printer). Reviews of the machine were highly positive - especially when it came to being user friendly - which is why I thought it would be the right machine for me. So far, the printer has been fantastic - as I'm approaching this from an arts-based perspective rather than a technical one, the auto-leveling capability has made my design process and test prints much easier. While I find that this is a great machine, it's not the only one. Do your research, and choose one that suits you best.

Other Equipment

I do all of my 3D printing in my garage, with an insulating wooden box around the printer. The wooden box was constructed simply out of recycled pallets, with one side being a removable panel for ease of access. Inside the printer is an ELEGOO Mini Heater (with in-built filter), and inside the box next to the printer is a small foot heater. I aim to keep the temperature at roughly 30°C (86°F) inside the box, and I use a cheap digital thermometer from Amazon that I use to monitor the temperature via bluetooth using an app on my phone. As I live in Melbourne, Australia, I've found this extra insulation crucial due to our heavily seasonal weather. It often drops to below 10°C (50°F) during printing hours in winter, and the box and heater combo has drastically helped with temperature regulation and increased the reliability of my prints.

3D printer setup in insulated wooden box

Insulated box interior: 3D Printer, small heater, and digital thermometer

I use an ELEGOO Mercury Plus V2.0 washing and curing station, in conjunction with the ELEGOO Photopolymer Resin Detergent. Although it's possible to kit-bash cheaper alternatives, I've found that this setup is very convenient, as it's compact yet big enough to handle the volume of printing that I'm doing (I focus on printing several test models rather than commercial-level printing). I use a lot of ELEGOO products as they are easy to get a hold of in Australia, as there aren't as many easily available options here as in other parts of the world (shipping to Australia can be very expensive).

Finally, I use a cheap rice cooker to heat water to roughly 45°C (113°F), to be able to heat the models and easily remove supports. This is more environmentally friendly than boiling water in a kettle, as I can reheat the same batch of water multiple times, rather than having to dispose of contaminated water after each use.

Safety

Safety is always paramount when printing with resin. I use a respirator, goggles, and nitrile gloves, and keep plenty of paper towel on hand for cleaning as I go. I also print out in the garage, as it's easily ventilated and away from high-use areas inside the house.

PPE: respirator, goggles, nitrile gloves

Curing equipment

Resin

I use the ELEGOO ABS-like Resin V3.0+. I like using ABS resin as it's more firm for painting, and more durable, which makes it great for wargaming. I enjoy using the standard grey instead of the colored version while doing test prints, as I find it easier to see the details prior to painting (even though I really like the look of the mint green).

Calbirating for Complete Beginners...

This guide assumes that you have some experience using a 3D printer. However, if you've never printed before, I highly recommed that you first look at full walk throughs and setups. Some instructional videos that I've found useful include ones by Once in a Six Side, FauxHammer, and Uncle Jessy, but have a look for ones specific to your particular machine.

Calibration Settings

When calibrating my print settings, I set a layer height of 0.2mm as it provides a good level of detail for miniature wargaming and minimal visible layer lines when painting. I set an exposure time of 2.5 seconds, and 20 seconds base exposure, as these work best for me using my preferred calibration test (more on that below). Depending on your printer you may have other settings to work with as well - don't be afraid to check out guides specific to your particular unit, and experiment with your settings to discover what gets you the best result.

For a long time I used the Photonsters Validation Matrix v2 calibration test to set up my printer, and while it gave me relatively reliable results, I was still getting failures fairly frequently. That being said, it was a good place to start as it was fast to print and uses very little resin.

However, after switching to The Cones of Calibration V3 test, I was able to fine tune my exposure time to achieve much more reliable prints. I highly recommend that after you've set things up, that you use this calibration test to fine tune your results... it's also a bit of fun (especially if you like tiny swords).

Final Thoughts

This is what I currently have, but I'm always looking to make changes and develop my setup to make it more efficient. Some things that I'm looking forward to trying out in the future include the Chitu Systems Hoopat X4 Quick Release Resin Vat, and using a heat gun instead of the rice cooker.

Note: Slinky Gibbon Games is not affiliated with any of the brands, companies, or channels mentioned in this post.